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Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Orange County

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Camper Service And Repair Orange County, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

The majority of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has drawn away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Orange County. I'm assuming the fixing will require changing that whole length of rain gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger scale screws to replace those that were drawn out

We've got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months back, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, major repair work, etc, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy ride before we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, etc, is great. The rear brace assembly is fine, but the front one is cracked at the bottom and completely appeared at the top, so that the leading support arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound practical? Also the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier gray steel - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just intending to ensure we're not being taken in out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rain damages in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as recommendations as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly also obtain us via the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd rather find a fast and effective option. Anybody? Please!.

Invite to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from three sides of the roof covering. Yet in order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to remove the recreational vehicle awning also.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to remove the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be gotten rid of to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise notice exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off first before the final steps of this blog post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I really did not really have to do this action till the awning got on the ground however I noticed this established screw right here holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the best end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, merely draw back on the brace. Unscrewing the big lag screws that hold the RV awning installing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical edge at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning placing brace on the right. Getting rid of the placing brace of the awning. Once the mounting braces are detached, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is generally much like a normal piece of light weight aluminum roof covering side trim molding except that near the bottom edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar needs to be gotten rid of. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an utility knife if it is covered under. Just yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. When I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Feel in one's bones it's coming! Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break complimentary and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground little bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the appropriate end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just glides straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail away.

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When both set screws were eliminated I might slide the whole awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding shown right here. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so once again I just tore up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass transition. To lift that, the edge molding should be removed.

I can swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. When I could turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping blade. I loosened the other corner trim in the very same method, and curved it sidewards simply sufficient so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a significant quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's just popping through the staples. Ultimately the side of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! I've revealed the roofing substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Very same offer once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue now) and after that I can yank out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scratched up a few of the busted little bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The whole thing began to bring up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I might see the steel framework below. But then the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know just how specifically they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The items of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the initial seam. A close of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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I located a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. Which means I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the method down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing system substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling yet glue now) and then I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Canvas Repair Orange County. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how exactly they took care of to glue every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, but it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly understood the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so broke it off just prior to the very first seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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