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Camper Roof Repair Near Me Walnut

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

Camper Repair Shop Walnut, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Camper Roof Repair Near Me Walnut. I'm assuming the repair will require changing that entire length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got busted brackets on our camper awning. 2 months back, we had a bad tire blow-out that triggered a bent axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy adventure prior to we understood the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it was in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring system, and so on, is great. The back bracket assembly is fine, but the front one is broken at the bottom and completely damaged through on top, to make sure that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper. We are in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio sensible? Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a larger gray metal - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make sure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it needs to be totally changed? The motor home is a 2007, but we had rain damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand-new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly such as recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summer season - without having to put in a brand-new awning! We're in a very serious bind since we have a journey intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I 'd instead locate a quick and reliable option. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I need to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing system outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally notice how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the last steps of this message (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact have to do this step till the awning was on the ground however I noticed this established screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, merely pull back on the bracket. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing bracket on the. Eliminating the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roofing, this awning bar requires to be removed. Right here's a take a look at the circular network at the bottom of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the entire roofing like me, after that you wouldn't need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the whole awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You may have to reduce the end with an energy knife if it is covered under. Simply yank it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. When I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole point instantly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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Simply understand it's coming! When the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof that was secured under it. Once you begin drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back versus the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the ideal end of the awning, (I got rid of the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail simply moves straight off the canvas by sliding the whole rail away.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were eliminated I can move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can eliminate the old roofing decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next thing holding down the motor home fiberglass siding panels is the corner trim molding shown right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip placed, so once more I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

However I might wind up eliminating it later if I need to change the luan plywood under this fiberglass transition. The roofing outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass transition have to be raised. To raise that, the corner molding need to be eliminated.

I can turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could swing that item of edge molding off the side, I began to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same way, and curved it laterally just enough so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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It's simply popping through the staples. Lastly the side of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually revealed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to locate the leading edge. Exact same offer again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this factor) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

As soon as I scratched up several of the broken little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to pull up easily unharmed without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I can see the steel framing underneath. However after that the plywood started peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the bottom that signs up with the pieces together. I do not understand how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I quickly realized the roof covering was losing strength and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the initial joint. A close of the metal framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the way down nevertheless. Yet we'll reach that later on. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The edge of the roof covering decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've revealed the roof covering substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there wasn't much stifling however glue at this moment) and after that I can yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Roof Repair Near Me Walnut. Currently I can draw out the last little rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roofing system plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scratched up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that signs up with the assemble. I don't know exactly how exactly they took care of to adhesive everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are joined together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roofing system was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so cracked it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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